New York Time: Indulgences for Those Used to Saying No

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Usually, when you bake cookies and cakes without wheat flour, eggs, sugar and butter, the first thing that goes is proper texture. Then flavor. But the oatmeal and chocolate chip cookies ($1 each) that Erin McKenna, below right, is turning out at Babycakes, 248 Broome Street (Orchard Street), (212)677-5047, her new little bakery, are delicious, more crisp than chewy. Her iced cupcakes ($2.75 and $3.25), especially the chocolate ones, are tender, rich and light. Ms. McKenna said she experimented for months to come up with recipes using organic spelt flour, agave syrup, fruit purées, cold-pressed coconut oil and, for gluten-free cupcakes, garbanzo beans. Nothing contains nuts of any kind. But she does rely on excellent chocolate, which also saves the day. Muffins ($2.75), brownies ($2.50) and pound cake slices ($2.75) are also available.

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